Cossma1401-02_GB_Teaser

A ccording to Datamonitor*, cos- meceuticals are topical beauty products which are formulated with ingredients that can influence the biological functions of the body, and are a cross between topical pharma- ceuticals and cosmetic products. Orig- inally, the term cosmeceutical was applied to dermatological and “doctor” skincare brands with a strong medical heritage, but nowadays many main- stream brands are pushing the bound- aries with cosmetic products contain- ing active ingredients and making bolder claims. The word “cosmeceutical” was first coined by a US cosmetic scientist called Raymond Reed in 1962 and was later built on by Prof. Albert Kligman. According to the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 13, 103–110, 1962, a cosmeceutical was defined as: – a scientifically-designed product in- tended for external application to the human body – producing a useful, desired result – having desirable aesthetic properties – meeting rigid chemical, physical, and medical standards Modified definitions This definition may seem quite clear, but over the years it has taken on different meanings as cosmetics com- panies have adopted a “cosmeceutical” stance for their products, particularly in the area of anti-ageing. According to Carrie Mellage, vice president, con- sumer products, Kline & Company, the term is so ill-defined that there is no classification for it in any of their reports. “The term, originally coined by Dr. Albert Kligman, encompasses products that have drug-like benefits and perform some transformative change to humans. This would techni- cally include all anti-ageing products, skin whiteners/brighteners, acne aids, whitening toothpastes, tooth-whiten- ing systems, anti-cellulite products 16 COSSMA 1-2I2014 MARKETING PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT and anti-perspirants, etc.,” she ex- plains. “Although it is used commonly today to refer only to anti-ageing prod- ucts, which is not really accurate.” Despite a lack of clarity, Kline roughly estimate the global cosmeceu- ticals market to be approximately $75 billion at manufacturer levels in 2012. The driving force is mainly anti-ageing products claiming radiance, skin firm- ing, brightening, colour correction and wrinkle reduction. Nikola Matic, indus- try manager, chemicals and materials at Kline, explains how these claims are achieved. “Since cosmeceuticals are basically products that are presented as ‘very active’, the marketing story is also built on active ingredients, there- by necessitating the active ingredients to have this high performance image, supported by strong claims, as well as by data. Synthetic peptides used to be the active ingredients of choice for cos- meceuticals due to their high-tech na- ture. Of course other products can be used, but in this sector the efficacy is more important than anything else e.g. naturalness,” he explains. A few years ago, Wendy Lewis, in- dustry skin-care consultant, presented a paper at the In-Cosmetics trends pre- sentations and discussed the trend for “cosmeceutical-lite” products, refer- ring to mainstream brands which made strong efficacy claims for their prod- ucts. Ramaa Chipalkatti, Analyst at Datamonitor, affirms that this trend is still prevalent today, although the term “cosmeceutical” is rarely used. Instead, the focus has shifted towards skin-care competing with medical treatments, leading to new skin-care terminology such as L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Laser Renew and Clinique Repairwear Laser Focus. Cosmeceuticals have become an alternative, or, indeed, a stepping stone towards more invasive treatment Trends in cosmeceuticals photo:KonstantinYuganov,Shutterstock.com The trend of mainstream brands making strong efficacy claims has shifted towards skin-care competing with medical treat- ments Imogen Matthews talks about the latest trends and the changing interpretation of products marketed today as cosmeceuticals. COS1402_16_Imogen_GB_COS1306_24_Zschimmer_D 17.01.14 08:23 Seite 16

Cossma1401-02_GB_Teaser

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