Cossma1401-02_GB_Teaser

options. One example is Clinique Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector. “It is promoted as being comparable or equal in efficacy to a leading prescrip- tion ingredient,” explains Chipalkatti. “While other brands have targeted consumers’ skin tone concerns, none make such comparative claims. Such strong ‘expressions of proof’ aim to give sceptical beauty buyers more confidence that a given brand is more effective.” Another example is Origins Plantscription, also an Estée Lauder brand, which claims regenerative anti- ageing properties “inspired by the sci- ence of cellular plant regeneration”. The brand explicitly suggests that Plantscription is a natural alternative to more costly and potentially invasive anti-wrinkle prescriptions such as retinoids or derivatives of vitamin A, or an injection. “While bringing criticism, the message has seemingly resonated with consumers as indicated by the huge success enjoyed by this product,” states Chipalkatti. Datamonitor has noted other exam- ples of cosmeceutical launches in sun care, hair care and beauty drinks: Sunology Sunscreen is a US brand promoted as a “sunscreen for skin that prefers no chemicals”. It claims to be the world’s first and only sun care prod- uct containing VitaOleféra, a natural moringa oil complex in combination with soy bean oil and soy glyceride, naturally derived from ferulic acid – a known antioxidant. Sun & Sports Shampoo by Green People is an anti-chlorine and UV re- pair natural shampoo designed to pro- tect hair from an active lifestyle and contains the fairly traded ingredients ginger root oil, lemon grass leaf oil and clove bud oil. Ocòo The Beauty Drink by Ocòo (UAE) claims anti-ageing, skin-care and hair-care benefits and encourages collagen production by supplying “the deepest layers of your skin with a prop- er daily dose of nutrients from the in- side”. The drink features super-fruit ingredients such as pomegranate, açai berry, aronia, cranberries, blackcur- rants and red grapes. The brand also claims to offer “vital substances” for the hair, due to its biotin trace which contributes to maintaining normal hair, as well as copper which “con- tributes to normal hair pigmentation”. The future of cosmeceuticals looks increasingly interesting following the industry’s investment in the perform- ance and efficacy criteria of active in- gredients with new technologies such as epigenetics, and with stem cell applications on the horizon. Steve Barton*, skin-care consultant to the health and beauty industry, maintains: “We are getting to know more about what existing cosmetics can do with the physiology of the skin, even at the genetic level. It was previously be- lieved that we could not play with ge- netics, but that view is now changing.” However, he warns that product claims should not build unrealistic consumer expectations, such as reversing the ef- fects of ageing. “A lot of work is needed to show that by using products it is possible to see change, but much still needs to be done to match consumer expectations with claims.” Datamonitor’s 2013 global con- sumer research backs up Barton’s views, with nearly four consumers in ten saying they considered “claims that beauty products are backed by science” to be trustworthy. It is therefore vital for brands to highlight these state- ments in order to give greater credibil- ity to cosmeceutical claims. *Datamonitor, Kline Group and Steve Barton will partici- pate in next year’s trends presentations at in-cosmetics. Further information at www.in-cosmetics.com The future of cosmeceuticals is charac- terised by new technologies such as epigenetics and stem cell applications PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT MARKETING photo:Palau,Shutterstock.com Imogen Matthews In-Cosmetics Consultant Oxford UK COS1402_16_Imogen_GB_COS1306_24_Zschimmer_D 17.01.14 08:24 Seite 17

Cossma1401-02_GB_Teaser

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